Tuesday, 28 October 2014

SANTIAGO

Hi everyone, We are still alive!  Sorry for the lack of communication but computers and the Spanish language have been a problem.
We reached Santiago on 14 October. It was a bitter sweet moment.  Sadness that the walk was over by great joy that we made the whole walk.  It was disappointing that the Cathedral is under repair and draped with shadecloth and scaffolding both inside and out.  It helped knowing that we still had our walk to Fisterre to look forward.  I cant believe that I did not feel relieved that the walking was over but thatI still wanted to walk further.
Since my last update we have had big weather changes.  Our walk on the Primitivo was mainly in rain or misty conditions.  This was unfortunate as we missed seeing the great views.  The day we had to walk the Hospitales route, reportedly the most difficult day on all Camino´s but also one of the most beautiful, started off sunny.  Within an hour of starting up the mountain the mist rolled in. There was the occassional 20 second break in the mist where we managed to glimpse some of the view.  We had been warned that there would be no civilization for the 27km route and must carry all we would need to eat and drink for the day as well as supper for the evening.  I loved the remoteness of the route.  There were route markers, roughly every 20m, which stood about 1m up out of the ground.  The frequency and height of the markers is due to the heavy mists and snow experienced on this route.  I must say I appreciated seeing the markers, only one at a time, throught the heavy mist.  At one point I turned around and could not see David anywhere.  It was a frightening moment being alone in a mist so thick that you could not see anything. We reached our destination for the day tired but exhilarated.  We had climbed over 1200m in height.  One highlight on this day was seeing two groups of wild horses.
The weather continued to be misty and wet.  On one day it rained so hard that it stung our faces walking but you have no choice but to carry on.  Once you start a day on this route you have two alternatives, either you continue to the next albergue, usually 25km or more, or you go back to where you started.  No accommodation of any kind in between.  It was a great experience and I am so glad we chose this route.  We got to experience authentic rural Spain.  We experienced Basque, Austarian, Cambian and Galacian cultures.  It was interesting to be able to feel these differences. 
On our way to Santiago we met a couple from US, Larry and Sharon.  They arrived in Santiago the day after us and we bumped into them when they arrived.  They decided to stay at the same Hostal (a hostal is Spain is actually a level of accommodation just below a hotel not dormitory type accommodtion).  As the weather forecast for next few days was more rain we all decided to go to O'Porto in Portugal for the weekend.  It was a good decision and we spent two wonderful days in Porto.  As we had done no research on the City it was a lovely surprise to see such a lovely place.  The Portuguese people are also so friendly and helpful.
Sunday eveing we were back in Santiago to prepare to leave the following morning for Fisterra.  The weather had cleared so we were looking forward to a sunny walk.  The distance is 90km and we decided to take 5 days to get there.  The terrain now, instead of mountainous, became hilly.  We enjoyed being able to amble along each day.  The highlight of the walk to Fisterre was our stay in a hostal right on a beach.  We had a room which looked over the beach and slept with the windows open listening to Atlantic waves breaking on the beach. 
Fisterra itself was a disappointment.  A dirty neglected fishing village with unfriendly people.  We did the traditional walk to the lighthouse at 'the end of the world' at sunset.  We did not burn our clothes but quite a few people were burning theirs.  We sat on the rocks waiting, and then a school of dolphin appeared and started playing about it the waves.  It was quite an emotional moment knowing our walk was now really over.
Luckily for us the weather was once again sunny and hot so we spent time on the 2km long Longesteria beach and we even swam in the sea.
Thats it for now, back in Santiago for two days and then we leave for Madrid.

Monday, 6 October 2014

Grandes de Salime - 600 km

Hi, It is me again at last.  I am in the library with free internet!
Where to start?  We are having a really good time, it is even better than I expected.  I will try to give a quick run down from where I left off last time.
Sunday 21 September - GUEMES  This was such a surprise.  Everyone we met said we must stay at Guemes.  This is a donativo (donation) Albergue which takes about 60 pilgrims.  Situatued in a remote area on a hill in beautiful countryside.  We were one of the first to arrive for the day and shown to a room which slept 11 pilgrims.  Very spacious and clean.  On arrival we were offered lunch and given something to drink.  After showering and doing some washing I walked around the grounds, beautiful gardens on a farm.  There is a really large recreation room / lounge, a library and a wonder dining room which has the atmosphere of a pub.  It is under the orgininal farm house and used to house the cattle.
At 7.30 in the evening we were all called to a ¨meeting¨ Ernesto the owner told us the history of the place and explaing its philosophy.  We then had a very festive communal supper in the dinning room with lots of red wine.  The following morning there was breakfast for all before we carried on.  There is a wooden box into which you put any donation you feel you would like to give. 
Ernesto who is in his last 70´s and owns/runs the place is the parish priest for two parishes in the area.  Anyway more about this really interesting place when I return home.
Monday 22 September BEZANE SANTE CRUZ some rain today but luckily not too heavy before we arrived at our destination, an Albergue run on the same prinicipal as Geumes and recommended by them.  This one was much smaller, in a family home.  Also had a wonderful atmosphere with a communal supper around one table.  So interesting all trying to chat with no many nationalities.  An interesting lady here was a lady from Lithuania walking with her 3 year old who she is pulling along in a wagon type pram.  She told us the wagon broke so she went to a garage where they repaired it for her for nothing.
Tuesday 23 September SANTILLANA DEL MAR. Left Santa Cruz and caught a train!!!! Yes we got onto a train, from a station in a place called Boo.  The reason for the train is that the ferry no longer runs and people have been banned from walking 900m along the railway line to cross the river.  So instead of a ferry we took a 2 minute train ride.
Santillana was such a shock.  From the top of the hill it looked like a derelict town but turned out to be a wonderful medieval village which has hardly changed at all.  Lots and lots of tourists and tour busses but because of the narrow streets the busses and cars are out of town.
Wednesday 24 September COMILLAS Once again some cooler weather - lovely.  It is really tiring walking in hot humid weather. Arrived to find the Albergue closed for fumigation due to bed bugs!  Walked into town and booked into a Pension.  So nice to have real towels and our own room.  Todays walk uneventful, just beautiful and peaceful, lots of harvesting taking place.
Thursday 25 September SERDIO Mornings are getting darker now.  When we arrived we could leave at 7.15 and it would be light enough to see our way.  Today we left at about 8 and it was only just light. Arrived in a seaside town, San Vincente de la Barquera at about 10.  I really liked this place.  Somehow it appealed more than the previous places.  All the seaside resorts are on hills, some even have escallators to take you up the steep hill and one even had lifts.
Serdio is a very small place, no shops and one bar, bar Gloria where we fetched the key for the Albergue.  There were only 6 of us tonight in this lovely peaceful little village.  As per Spanish life, the children and families all appeared about 18h00, the children outside playing on the Plaza while parents socialised.
Friday 26 Sepetmeber PENDULES and another donative Albergue with communal meals.  This one is run by a hospitelero named Javier.  It is also in his private home and once again we had a wonderful evening.
Saturday 27 September CELORIO -We woke to wonderful music which Javier had warned us would be 15 minutes before breakfast.  Once again we had the usual Spanish breakfast of Coffee, bread and something sweet, this time Marie biscuits and cake.Javier suggested that we deviate from the Camino due to roadworks and follow the E9 or GR route which is a well know European marked hiking route.  This took us all along the coastal cliffs on a stunning day.  Picnic overlooking the ocean and lovely deserted beaches.
Sunday 28 September SAN ESTEBAN and a walk of 32km!  It was raining when we left this morning but our new poncho purchased en route worked well. Over the past two days we have hardly seen any other pilgrims while we are walking, one yesterday and the a group of 4 we have met regularly. Arrived at our destination, Ribadsella but as it is a tourist town and was Sunday afternoon, we found it too hectic after our quiet times so decided to carry on to San Esteban at the top of a LONG hill.  San Esteban consists of an old Church and across the road, the Albergue.  There was some sort of festival at the Church and everyone, including the horses there, was having lots of fun.  The Albergue building was very old and extremely spacious with high ceilings.  Once again only a few of us and a pleasant evening.
Monday 29 September SEBAYO Sunny and hot again today.  We saw a lot of strange house type structures today.  Looked like low roofed houses built on pillars.  Discovered that they are Horreos, and they are built to dry the corn.  The reason for the pillars is to keep the mice out.  Another interesting fact is that they can be dismantled and moved. Tomorrow will be a big day for us, we make the choice of continuing on with the Northern/coastal route or branch off to the Primitivo but that is for my next blog post.

Saturday, 20 September 2014

We are on our Way. 230km completed!

Hello all, sorry for the long absence but I had problems logging on in Spain.

We have been having a wonderful time. The weather has been kind to us although it has been 30plus degrees each day and very humid.
We left Irun at 12.30 on wed 10 Sept and walked until 8.00 to arrive at a full Albergue!  Apparently the hospitalero,after seeing my exhausted face, phoned a neighbour who let rooms in her house.  Wonderful to  have some privacy on our first night!.
Left early the next morning and crossed the river on a ferry.  LOTS  of  very  very steep hills. Scenery  is beautiful we walked through fields and forests.
Second night in our first Albegue in a place called Orio.  It was much better than I expected.  Everyone very nice but nobody speaks any english.  Suprisingly my little bit French has come in useful as many of the French speak spanish and can interpret.  We were offered a meal at the Albergue of soup, chicken and desert and of course the bottle of red wine.  At supper with 3 frenchmen.  Far more men walking than woman.
Friday morning left early and had breakfast of orange juice crossaint and coffee. Juice  - zuma - is freshly squeezed and we have learned to order coffee - cafe con leche grande.  This comes in a glass!  It is the best coffee, without exception always good. Met lots of locals out on their morning jogs or walking the dogs.  Arrived at our destination and walked 3km up hill to recommended accommodation to be told that it was full!  It  is weekend and wonderful weather (apparently Aug weather was not good and now having exceptinal weather for September) so everyone was out. Luckily the receptionist was going back into town so gave us a lift back and organised us a room in a pension above a taverna.
This turned out to be a good thing as we were in the centre of  town and able to be part of the atmosphere.  Met our first English speaking couple in the bar. They were on holiday from UK.
Saturday  walked on to Deba. We left our pension in Zumaia and walked back up the 3km hill and through the countryside.  Very sad to see how badly the dogs are treated in the rural areas.  They are always chained up on short chains. We reached our destination 5km outside of Deba and stayed in a fairly new Albergue on a small holding.  Two dormitories of 16 beds each. We shared one dormitory with a Polish couple and the other room was used by men only.  Once again a wonderful meal, interesting in that wife organised starters, the usual salad consisting of lettuce, tomato, eggs, asparagus, tuna etc. This was followed by a sausage and potato type casserole prepared by, I think, her brother.  After this we were served chicken and chips.  Desert was ice cream or creme caramel served by the husband followed by coffee and of course we had the usual red wine.  All for 10 Euro.
Sunday we arrived at the Cistercian Monastry in Zarautz.  Unfortunately it was raining when we arrived so we could not walk around the gardens.  We were all invited to attend Vespers with the monks which most of us did.  Sleeps 10 and we were given a large pot of vegetable soup and bread for supper.  Breakfast of bread and jams and coffee.  This is all donativo! There is a box behind a door for your donation.  We had a thunder storm whilst here and lots of rain.
Monday we left in very slippery conditions. Was had going trying not to slip on the steep hills through the forest. Stopped to overnight in Gernicke.  No  Albergues so we booked into a pension once again above a bar.  The down side of being above a bar is the noise.  The spanish only seem to go to bed about 2am but then the mornings are quiet until well after 10am and of course dont forget siesta from 1.00 -5.00 when EVERYTHING is closed.
Tuesday Arrived in Lazama at about 1.00 Albergue only opened at 3.00 so we joined the queue and relaxed on lawns outside. A lovely new Albegue in a small town.  Went for drinks with some frenchmen. Bought cheese and ham for supper and off to bed.
Wednesday 17th, Portugalete.  What a long day.  Walked into Bilbao and 5km out of town through industrial area.  I seem to have pulled a muscle in my thigh and this added to the unpleasantness of the walk.
We had to take famous Puento Colgante to cross the river.  Stayed in a Pension as no Alburgue.  Wonderful hosiçpitality from the old couple who run it.
Thursday 18th Castro Urdiales.  Left this morning over an enormous pedestrian flyover.Most of todays walking was alongside a freeway so not very inspiring.  Once again my leg is bothering me. Stayed in Albergue which got full so mattresses on the floor to try to accommodate people, lots of Aussies here. Enough said :)
Friday 19th Laredo.  Once again lots of road walking. We could have left the road and walked via countryside but I am trying to rest me leg and I was worried about the uneven ground. We stayed in the Dominican Missionaries Alburgue.  The hospitalero was very insistant that we were married.  It turned out that the rooms are private and as a married couple we were given our own room.  Lovely place with a separate lounge, dining room and kitchen.
Saturday 20th.  Left Laredo and walked 5km to the ferry to take us to Santona.   Today is to be our rest day.  We have booked into the Albergue in Laredo.  It is not very clean, probably the worst place so far, but the town is very pleasant.

Thats me for now.  This was the second internet cafe we have seen on route.  The first one was closed down.  I will try to update you soon.

Monday, 8 September 2014

0 DAYS TO GO - We're off to Great Places! We're off and away!


Oh, the Places You'll Go!

by Dr. Seuss


Congratulations!
Today is your day.
You're off to Great Places!
You're off and away!

You have brains in your head.
You have feet in your shoes
You can steer yourself
any direction you choose.
You're on your own.  And you know what you know.
And YOU are the guy who'll decide where to go.

You'll look up and down streets.  Look 'em over with care.
About some you will say, "I don't choose to go there."
With your head full of brains and your shoes full of feet,
you're too smart to go down any not-so-good street.

And you may not find any
you'll want to go down.
In that case, of course,
you'll head straight out of town.

It's opener there
in the wide open air.

Out there things can happen
and frequently do
to people as brainy
and footsy as you.

And when things start to happen,
don't worry.  Don't stew.
Just go right along.
You'll start happening too.

OH!
THE PLACES YOU'LL GO!

You'll be on your way up!
You'll be seeing great sights!
You'll join the high fliers
who soar to high heights.

You won't lag behind, because you'll have the speed.
You'll pass the whole gang and you'll soon take the lead.
Wherever you fly, you'll be the best of the best.
Wherever you go, you will top all the rest.

Except when you don't
Because, sometimes, you won't.

I'm sorry to say so
but, sadly, it's true
and Hang-ups
can happen to you.

You can get all hung up
in a prickle-ly perch.
And your gang will fly on.
You'll be left in a Lurch.

You'll come down from the Lurch
with an unpleasant bump.
And the chances are, then,
that you'll be in a Slump.

And when you're in a Slump,
you're not in for much fun.
Un-slumping yourself
is not easily done.

You will come to a place where the streets are not marked.
Some windows are lighted.  But mostly they're darked.
A place you could sprain both your elbow and chin!
Do you dare to stay out?  Do you dare to go in?
How much can you lose? How much can you win?

And IF you go in, should you turn left or right...
or right-and-three-quarters? Or, maybe, not quite?
Or go around back and sneak in from behind?
Simple it's not, I'm afraid you will find,
for a mind-maker-upper to make up his mind.

You can get so confused
that you'll start in to race
down long wiggled roads at a break-necking pace
and grind on for miles across weirdish wild space,
headed, I fear, toward a most useless place.
The Waiting Place...

...for people just waiting.
Waiting for a train to go
or a bus to come, or a plane to go
or the mail to come, or the rain to go
or the phone to ring, or the snow to snow
or waiting around for a Yes or a No
or waiting for their hair to grow.
Everyone is just waiting.

Waiting for the fish to bite
or waiting for wind to fly a kite
or waiting around for Friday night
or waiting, perhaps, for their Uncle Jake
or a pot to boil, or a Better Break
or a string of pearls, or a pair of pants
or a wig with curls, or Another Chance.
Everyone is just waiting.

NO!
That's not for you!

Somehow you'll escape
all that waiting and staying.
You'll find the bright places
where Boom Bands are playing.

With banner flip-flapping,
once more you'll ride high!
Ready for anything under the sky.
Ready because you're that kind of a guy!

Oh, the places you'll go! There is fun to be done!
There are points to be scored.  there are games to be won.
And the magical things you can do with that ball
will make you the winning-est winner of all.
Fame!  You'll be famous as famous can be,
with the whole wide world watching you win on TV.

Except when they don't.
Because, sometimes, they won't.

I'm afraid that some times
you'll play lonely games too.
Games you can't win
'cause you'll play against you.

All Alone!
Whether you like it or not,
Alone will be something
you'll be quite a lot.

And when you're alone, there's a very good chance
you'll meet things that scare you right out of your pants.
There are some, down the road between hither and yon,
that can scare you so much you won't want to go on.

But on you will go
though the weather be foul
On you will go
though your enemies prowl
On you will go
though the Hakken-Kraks howl
Onward up many
a frightening creek,
though your arms may get sore
and your sneakers may leak.

On and on you will hike
and I know you'll hike far
and face up to your problems
whatever they are.

You'll get mixed up, of course,
as you already know.
You'll get mixed up
with many strange birds as you go.
So be sure when you step.
Step with care and great tact
and remember that Life's
a Great Balancing Act.
Just never forget to be dexterous and deft.
And never mix up your right foot with your left.

And will you succeed?
Yes! You will, indeed!
(98 and 3/4 percent guaranteed.)

KID, YOU'LL MOVE MOUNTAINS!

So...
be your name Buxbaum or Bixby or Bray
or Mordecai Ali Van Allen O'Shea,
you're off to Great Places!
Today is your day!
Your mountain is waiting.
So...get on your way!
 
           

Thursday, 4 September 2014

4 DAYS TO GO - Help!

I have just realised, only 4 days to go.  Somehow next Monday feels like a week away, not 4 DAYS.  I am more or less packed - I could leave now if you told me too but I would still like to tweak things a bit more. I think that David really wants more time, but there is never enough time, SO for David 4 more full and busy days.
I am very happy that I have managed to keep my pack under 6kg (5,700g at the moment).  The weight may change slightly as I adjust things but I am determined that it wont go over 5,750g.

Friday, 22 August 2014

16 DAYS TO GO! Wild Animals on the Camino

Cantabrian brown bear

Yikes, bears on the Camino!  I thought it was a joke when I first heard this, but it is true!
From Wikipedia: 
Cantabrian brown bear refers to a population of Eurasian brown bears (Ursus arctos arctos) living in the Cantabrian Mountains of Spain. Females weigh, on average, 85 kg but can reach a weight of 150 kg. Males average 115 kg though can weigh as much as 200 kg. The bear measures between 1.6 – 2m in length and between 0.90 -1m at shoulder height. In Spain, it is known as the Oso pardo cantábrico and, more locally, in Asturias as Osu. It is timid and will avoid human contact whenever possible. The Cantabrian brown bear can live for around 25–30 years in the wild.




  
This is the location of the bears and also our route.  Note the snow in the picture!
















 A view of the habitat of the bears and our route!  
Note the few houses, I have been told that some of the villages only have about 5 houses.  I presume this is a picture of one of the small villages. 










And I thought that the only animals on the Camino were bulls and dogs!  


 
 Apparently there are also wild horses in the area.  Every year in July there is a festival, the Spanish love festivals, and approximately 400 horses are round up, caught, have there manes and tails trimmed and the released into the wild again! This picture was taken in July 2014.










Some of the protected Iberian animals include: storks, several species of vultures, the Iberian wolf, Iberian wild boar, Iberian lynx, Cantabrian brown bear and Iberian fox.

Iberian Wolf


 

Monday, 18 August 2014

3 WEEKS TO GO

Pilgrim's shell (scallop shell, concha de vieira)

Only 3 more weeks, 21 days.  The time seems to be going very quickly now.
Today I am posting some interesting information about the Camino Shell.
The scallop shell has long been the symbol of the Camino de Santiago. Over the centuries the scallop shell has taken on mythical, metaphorical and practical meanings, even if its relevance may actually derive from the desire of pilgrims to take home a souvenir. Two versions of the most common myth about the origin of the symbol concern the death of Saint James, who was martyred by beheading in Jerusalem in 44 AD

Version 1: After James' death, his disciples shipped his body to the Iberian Peninsula to be buried in what is now Santiago. Off the coast of Spain a heavy storm hit the ship, and the body was lost to the ocean. After some time, however, the body washed ashore undamaged, covered in scallops.+

Version 2: After James' death his body was mysteriously transported by a ship with no crew back to the Iberian Peninsula to be buried in what is now Santiago. As James' ship approached land, a wedding was taking place on the shore. The young groom was on horseback, and on seeing the ship approaching, his horse got spooked, and the horse and rider plunged into the sea. Through miraculous intervention, the horse and rider emerged from the water alive, covered in seashells.

I have been given my shell by someone who previously walked the Camino.  David found his shell on the beach at Struis Bay.