Hello all, sorry for the long absence but I had problems logging on in Spain.
We have been having a wonderful time. The weather has been kind to us although it has been 30plus degrees each day and very humid.
We left Irun at 12.30 on wed 10 Sept and walked until 8.00 to arrive at a full Albergue! Apparently the hospitalero,after seeing my exhausted face, phoned a neighbour who let rooms in her house. Wonderful to have some privacy on our first night!.
Left early the next morning and crossed the river on a ferry. LOTS of very very steep hills. Scenery is beautiful we walked through fields and forests.
Second night in our first Albegue in a place called Orio. It was much better than I expected. Everyone very nice but nobody speaks any english. Suprisingly my little bit French has come in useful as many of the French speak spanish and can interpret. We were offered a meal at the Albergue of soup, chicken and desert and of course the bottle of red wine. At supper with 3 frenchmen. Far more men walking than woman.
Friday morning left early and had breakfast of orange juice crossaint and coffee. Juice - zuma - is freshly squeezed and we have learned to order coffee - cafe con leche grande. This comes in a glass! It is the best coffee, without exception always good. Met lots of locals out on their morning jogs or walking the dogs. Arrived at our destination and walked 3km up hill to recommended accommodation to be told that it was full! It is weekend and wonderful weather (apparently Aug weather was not good and now having exceptinal weather for September) so everyone was out. Luckily the receptionist was going back into town so gave us a lift back and organised us a room in a pension above a taverna.
This turned out to be a good thing as we were in the centre of town and able to be part of the atmosphere. Met our first English speaking couple in the bar. They were on holiday from UK.
Saturday walked on to Deba. We left our pension in Zumaia and walked back up the 3km hill and through the countryside. Very sad to see how badly the dogs are treated in the rural areas. They are always chained up on short chains. We reached our destination 5km outside of Deba and stayed in a fairly new Albergue on a small holding. Two dormitories of 16 beds each. We shared one dormitory with a Polish couple and the other room was used by men only. Once again a wonderful meal, interesting in that wife organised starters, the usual salad consisting of lettuce, tomato, eggs, asparagus, tuna etc. This was followed by a sausage and potato type casserole prepared by, I think, her brother. After this we were served chicken and chips. Desert was ice cream or creme caramel served by the husband followed by coffee and of course we had the usual red wine. All for 10 Euro.
Sunday we arrived at the Cistercian Monastry in Zarautz. Unfortunately it was raining when we arrived so we could not walk around the gardens. We were all invited to attend Vespers with the monks which most of us did. Sleeps 10 and we were given a large pot of vegetable soup and bread for supper. Breakfast of bread and jams and coffee. This is all donativo! There is a box behind a door for your donation. We had a thunder storm whilst here and lots of rain.
Monday we left in very slippery conditions. Was had going trying not to slip on the steep hills through the forest. Stopped to overnight in Gernicke. No Albergues so we booked into a pension once again above a bar. The down side of being above a bar is the noise. The spanish only seem to go to bed about 2am but then the mornings are quiet until well after 10am and of course dont forget siesta from 1.00 -5.00 when EVERYTHING is closed.
Tuesday Arrived in Lazama at about 1.00 Albergue only opened at 3.00 so we joined the queue and relaxed on lawns outside. A lovely new Albegue in a small town. Went for drinks with some frenchmen. Bought cheese and ham for supper and off to bed.
Wednesday 17th, Portugalete. What a long day. Walked into Bilbao and 5km out of town through industrial area. I seem to have pulled a muscle in my thigh and this added to the unpleasantness of the walk.
We had to take famous Puento Colgante to cross the river. Stayed in a Pension as no Alburgue. Wonderful hosiçpitality from the old couple who run it.
Thursday 18th Castro Urdiales. Left this morning over an enormous pedestrian flyover.Most of todays walking was alongside a freeway so not very inspiring. Once again my leg is bothering me. Stayed in Albergue which got full so mattresses on the floor to try to accommodate people, lots of Aussies here. Enough said :)
Friday 19th Laredo. Once again lots of road walking. We could have left the road and walked via countryside but I am trying to rest me leg and I was worried about the uneven ground. We stayed in the Dominican Missionaries Alburgue. The hospitalero was very insistant that we were married. It turned out that the rooms are private and as a married couple we were given our own room. Lovely place with a separate lounge, dining room and kitchen.
Saturday 20th. Left Laredo and walked 5km to the ferry to take us to Santona. Today is to be our rest day. We have booked into the Albergue in Laredo. It is not very clean, probably the worst place so far, but the town is very pleasant.
Thats me for now. This was the second internet cafe we have seen on route. The first one was closed down. I will try to update you soon.
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